Antico Caffe: drawn in by the food, stay for the experience

Tokyo: the stress capital of a stressed country. Amongst the perpetual hum of overworked office drones and conformist students, a global chain, Antico Caffe, gently cuts through to provide a foreign paradise for the victims of ceaseless Tokyo. At Antico Caffe, usually formal Tokyo is animated, as chatter echoes through its narrow square of space.  

At first glance, the place is small. Rich maroon booths are squashed into corners, and a set of tables for two take up every other inch on the black and white mosaic floor. Sleek brown counters, obscure mammoth espresso machines; tall mirrors have their backs against the wall. The visuals make an attempt at elegance but fall short in authenticity. Through all the gimmick, one item crucially draws in hordes of people into the tiny square cafe: the display counter. Upon viewing, the counter will have somewhat of a glint of magic, separating the exhausted and dark-eyed city soul into an aroma of Italian coffee bar culture.

The waiters at Antico Caffe have clearly mastered the art of Japanese service, but it won’t take much prodding to realise that the relaxed shouldered workers here are enjoying their work– a sight as rare as finding a 2000 yen bill. Waiters shout out orders to their coworkers operating the colossal coffee machines, who serenade back with an elongated “Hai-”. Even through the vaguely-European decor and rich Italian menu, a breeze of Japanese joy permeates the atmosphere.

Coffee is an opener. An opener to the day, and an opener to the delectable cafe ensemble to follow. The coffee at Antico Caffe isn’t stellar by western standards, but adapts to the Japanese taste for bitterness, while carrying a sweetness that keeps calling on the drinker to take just another sip. Sure, the cafe latte isn’t the star of the show, but it successfully passes the baton to the second runner.  

To the Japanese eye, the spinach panini is completely foreign: fir coloured spinach, rained with sesame seeds, and irresistibly eye-catching. Fair warning — the sandwich, branded by the signature stripes of a panini press, should not be eaten before you wish to impress someone — proof of your consumption will remain brightly on your teeth. While many cafes meet their downfall in the form of soggy white bread, note that Antico does not fall short in this category. The bread, perfectly unsuspecting, maintains a breathtaking crunch to the tooth before being met with a glorious soft interior, intertwining with the powerful green spinach, creating a beautiful sandwich symphony.   

Antico Caffe provides a comfortable nook to its many visitors; its warm, lively atmosphere leaves its attendees with their stomachs appropriately full and their hearts bubbling to the brim.